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How to Clean a Camera Lens

For taking high quality and spotless pictures, the camera lens requires regular cleaning. Cleaning is also an art just like taking good pictures. If the cleaning is done incorrectly then it will beyond doubt compromise the quality of the pictures. Lens cleaning is one of the most significant maintenance practices. Before beginning the cleaning process, it has to be understood whether the lenses are point-and-shoot type or the Slr (singe lens reflex).

[b]Lens[/b]

Things Needed

Following are the items which are needed;

- Camera Lens
- Soft brush
- Clean sheet
- Cleaning cloths which should be extra cloths like the ones used for cleaning eyeglasses. Lowly towels or cloths are not convenient as they can leave scratches and fluffs on the lens
- Cleaning fluid is supposed to be made from pure water or alcohol. If this is not ready then plain water or alcohol will be fine.

Cleaning Point-and-shoot lenses

These types of camera lenses are built-in and they commonly have a protective automated window and shutter for protecting the glass from scratches and streaks. These lenses don't often get dirty and regular cleaning is not required for them.

Steps:

1. Turn on the camera for opening the lens corner.
2. Few drops of cleaning fluid are to be poured on the cleaning cloth.
3. The lens is to be cleaned from the surface and inside. All the surfaces should be reached especially with the small lenses.
4. It has to be made sure that the lenses are dry before turning off the camera and provocative the lens cover.
5. Turn on the camera and take a test photograph for checking if there are marks or streaks on the photograph.

Cleaning Slr lenses

These types of lenses are mostly preferable for taking outdoor photographs, this is the conjecture that they can be very dirty. Any way they are easy to clean as compared to other types of lenses.

Steps:

1. Look for a place that is free from dust and near the window having direct sunlight. Spread out the clean sheet and place all the items on it.
2. If the camera lens is still attached to the body then it has to be removed. Those lens parts that are attached to the body do not wish cleaning. It should be made sure that this part is not touched as fingerprints can affect the photograph quality.
3. Use a soft brush for slowly removing any dust or dirt.
4. Petite whole of cleaning fluid has to be poured on the cloth.
5. Start cleaning the lens from the center slowly provocative to the outer surface and then wipe off the fingerprints. Level strokes should never be used as form Level marks that are difficult to remove.
6. The dry part of the cloth has to be used for wiping the lens.
7. witness the camera lens under the sun for ensuring that it has been cleaned adequately. Now place the filter on the lens for manufacture sure that there no particles are trapped in in the middle of the two.
8. The lens can now be mounted back into place on the camera body.
9. Take a test photograph for checking if there are any streaks or marks on the lens.

How to Clean a Camera Lens

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How to choose the Best Lens for My Camera

If you are still using a point and shoot film or digital camera, your choice of lens speed is small to the camera. Any way for those of you who decided that it is time to move on and upgrade to an interchangeable lens camera, whether it happens to be film, or digital, you are no doubt have been seeing at the many lens options available. Large majority of citizen switch from a point and shoot to a particular Lens Reflex camera. While overwhelming percentage of citizen move to a Digital Slr, Film Slrs are still popular, and function essentially the same. So, for the purpose of this article, the two types will be treated as one. Lenses are ready in so many dissimilar combinations, and varieties, that discussing them all is far beyond the scope of this article. However, they all have one thing in common. They are all broken down into two groups: slow, and fast. If you are still struggling with choosing your first lens, or just trying to make the right decision, while faced with many choices, this report should help.

[b]Lens[/b]

First of all, the speed of the lens is carefully by the size of the opening, known as the aperture. The larger the opening the faster the lens is carefully to be. Typically, lenses marked with F4, F3.5, F2.8, and smaller are carefully fast, while lenses marked with a bigger estimate are slower. I know this may sound odd, but the smaller the estimate the faster the lens. If you are new to shooting with an Slr camera, you are most likely seeing at “zoom” lenses. Most zooms today have a changeable aperture. This plainly means that at the shortest end, the lens is faster than at the long end. For example, a typical lens a 28-80mm. This lens zooms from 28mm to 80mm, and it is a very good starter lens. This type of a lens will typically have a F3.5 gap ,break at 28mm (short end), while at 80mm (long end) it will be F4.5, or F5.6, which is considerably slower than the short end. Typically, the faster the lens, the more it will cost, and the heavier it will be. Most casual shooters look for very versatile lenses, and faster lenses precisely offer more flexibility in inescapable situations.

Now that we briefly discussed the belief of speed, lets shape out whether you precisely need a fast lens. The first thing that you have to think about is your shooting habits. Everybody is different, and very much unique. Some shoot landscapes, some only people, others night scenes, some shoot under water, and so forth. Typical casual shooter will likely shoot during daytime, and will likely be shooting portraits, landscapes, city scenes (during a vacation perhaps), and other fairly undemanding environments. If you shoot a lot of photos in dim light, like night clubs, restaurants, museums, outdoors after dark, and other dim light situations, a faster lens is right on a boon. However, you should always keep in mind that most zoom lenses, while faster at the short end, will be slower at the long end. This is very important, because if are going to be shooting at the longer end of the lens, when shopping for a lens, keep this in mind, and you will save yourself some money. Let me explain. Take two lenses, one is a 28-80mm f2.8(short end) / f5.6(long end), and an additional one lens, 28-80mm f3.5 / f 5.6. These two have an identical range, Any way the first is faster at the short end. This larger gap ,break does not come free. You may end up paying 2 times as much as the second lens. If you are going to be mostly zooming to the long end of the range, compare and price your lens at that end.

If you are going to be shooting mostly portraits and other static landscape and plan to use flash, or a tripod most of the time, you will not need a very fast lens, because the added speed will likely be of small benefit to you. As such, you will do just fine with a F4.0 or slower. Performance shooters often benefit from faster lenses, and if you are planning to capture sports, animals, and other spicy subjects, a faster lens may help at times. The particular biggest benefit of a faster lens is the freedom it gives you, when the light is limited. If you are an Performance shooter, and capture a lot of Performance in dim light, the extra speed will be very helpful, and allow you more hand-held shooting. always rate how much you are going to be shooting in dissimilar environments. Performance and low light shooters will most benefit from lenses with apertures of F4.0, and larger. If you think low light, and Performance will be very infrequent, and you are comparing two similar lenses, choose the funds one, which will likely be just a bit slower. Often, a price of a zoom lens with just a slightly smaller gap ,break at the long end will be hundreds or dollars less than a similarly sized zoom with a slightly larger aperture.

Most modern Digital Slrs can precisely offset the need for a fast lens straight through higher Iso settings, something that Film cameras do by using a faster film. With Film cameras, you would need to switch a roll of film to turn the Iso speed. If you use a Digital Slr, switching an Iso is easy, and could be done at any time. This is a huge benefit, and reduces a need for the faster lenses. Unless you are planning to make money with your camera gear, fastest lenses will not be cost effective.

Consider borrowing, or renting a fast lens, in the range which will meet your shooting needs, and test it in the dissimilar environments in which you will be shooting. If you are not pushing the limits of the lens, chances are, you will be Ok with a slower, more funds cordial alternative. Make sure that you know your budget, and how actively you will be involved in photography. If you plan to trade-up your equipment in a few years, keep in mind that technology only gets better, and manufacture a big investment will make more sense if you are going to get a lot of use out of it.

How to choose the Best Lens for My Camera

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security Camera - choosing The Best Lens (Focal Length)

This report assumes that you are choosing to buy a protection camera with a Fixed focal distance lens as opposed to a variable focal distance lens. variable focal distance cameras are becoming more commonly available. However, be aware that on midpoint cameras with a variable focal distance lens cost significantly more than those with fixed lenses. It costs more to build a good quality variable focal distance lens and it's also a challenge to weatherproof a varifocal camera for use outdoors due to the fact that the lens needs to turn to adjust the focal length. The large commercial watch cameras that have a zoom lens are usually housed in a weatherproof housing for outdoor use. This surely isn't a practical protection camera for the homeowner or small company owner though, due to its appearance and cost.

[b]Lens[/b]

Fixed lenses are commonly seen in the small, surely concealed weatherproof 'bullet' cameras that are sealed, and fairly inexpensive. Therefore, the fixed lens is still a mainstay of video watch systems for the normal consumer. choosing the best focal distance for your singular situation is important. You need to ask yourself these key questions: Is the camera just going to be used for a wide coverage (say to cover the parking lot at my company or my front yard) to monitor normal activity with slight detail? Is the camera going to be used to cover a exact narrow target area (say an entry way or doorway) where I want to recognize the face of the subject, and therefore need greater magnification?

Here are some steps that may be beneficial in determining the best focal distance protection camera:

Step 1: First, conclude the target distance - that is how far away your subject is likely to be. The idea here is to ascertain the target distance based on the situation. It's not an exact assessment, but choose a target distance that is representative of the area you want to cover. For example, if you want the protection camera to keep watch over your car parked in the driveway, choose a spot to mount the camera and then portion the distance from the camera to the far end of the car furthest from the camera. That way you're able to cover the car and the surrounding area that a perpetrator might have to cross in order to entrance your car. The idea is to choose an midpoint distance away from the camera that the perpetrator is likely to be.

Step 2: Next, conclude the width of the target area - that is the width of the area that you want the camera to cover. You want to choose a coverage area that is wide sufficient to capture the action, but not so wide that the magnification is diluted. Remember there is a trade off between coverage area and magnification, in that if you increase one you'll decrease the other (all other things being equal).

Step 3: conclude the Ccd chip format size of your camera. If you don't know this, then ask the vendor that you purchased it from. Good still, find out the Ccd format size Before you buy it. The Ccd sensor acts like the 'eye' of the camera. The lens of the camera focuses incoming light onto the Ccd chip which then converts it to a video signal using some very fancy circuitry. The focal distance is the distance from the lens to the covering of the Ccd sensor.

Step 4: Go to an online lens calculator (see website at bottom of this article).

Step 5: Enter the Ccd format size (Be Sure To choose The correct Ccd Size!), target distance and target area and click the 'Calculate' button to get the focal length.

Step 6: You'll consideration that it's probably some odd amount that does not match the acceptable focal lengths that are ready in the protection camera market. That's ok. The idea is to choose the focal distance that is closest to the one that you calculated. Some common acceptable focal lengths for protection cameras are 3.6 mm (wide angle), 6 mm, and 16 mm. If the focal distance that you calculated is is in between a acceptable size then you need to choose the one that you think is best for your singular application.

Here's where you need to make a decision as to either you want more magnification or greater coverage area. If you want more magnification then you would choose the longer focal length, if you want a wider coverage area then choose the smaller focal length.

For example, let's say that you have a 1/3 inch Ccd camera and your target distance is 25 ft. And your desired target width is 15 ft. Go to the lens calculator, enter the information, click 'calculate' and the reply is 8 mm. Possibly the type of watch camera that you want to buy doesn't come with an 8 mm lens as an option. You could use a 6 mm lens and it would most likely be fine since the 6 mm lens will surely cover a slightly wider area than the 8 mm. While the 6 mm lens does cover a wider area, you won't get quite as much magnification with it as you would with the 8 mm lens. Remember, there is a trade-off between magnification of information and coverage area!

If you want a Good opportunity of identifying your subject at a distance you might want to go with the stronger focal distance of say 16 mm to give you Good detail. Keep in mind though, the field of view will be narrower which entails a smaller coverage area. For a 1/3 inch Ccd, with the target distance at 25 ft., using a 16 mm lens gives you are coverage width of only 7.5 ft. This lens may help you get a subject's face in detail, but you may just miss him if he doesn't walk straight through the narrow target area! (This high magnification focal distance might be good for a doorway or entry that is a narrow target area is or if your target is at a greater distance).

What about the 'height' of the coverage area? For most watch cameras, the height of the coverage area is about 3/4 of the width (4 by 3 aspect ratio). So just multiply the width by 0.75 to gain the height of coverage area.

security Camera - choosing The Best Lens (Focal Length)

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The Sigma 10mm Fisheye: The Right Fisheye Lens For Your Camera?

The Sigma 10mm Fisheye Lens is designed primarily for digital single Lens Reflex cameras with Aps-C sized sensors. For Canon and Nikon that represents their 1.6x and 1.5x Crop camera systems. The Sigma 10mm Fisheye is a full frame diagonal, meaning that a 180 degree Fov is squeezed into a rectangular frame.

[b]Lens[/b]

Sigma makes mounts for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax and the Olympus Evolt Digital Slr's with their smaller 2x Crop sensors.

Sigma has for a long time been a leading third party lens provider; in the fisheye lens group Sigma has filled in the niches that Canon and Nikon have neglected. Canon and Sony users have probably been the most grateful because they don't make a fisheye lens designed for Aps-C sensors. Many Nikon shooters who own the D40, D40x, D60, D3000, and the D5000 have turned to this lens because these cameras don't have built-in focus motors and neither does the Nikkor 10.5mm Fisheye Lens.

Image ability of the Sigma 10mm Fisheye

The Sigma 10mm is a professional grade lens at an affordable price. Images are clean and sharp - although a microscopic soft colse to the edges when fully opened up at f/2.8. Discrepancy and color saturation are right on the money. In short, the Sigma takes great pictures, just as you would expect with any high caliber prime lens.

Sigma's done a pretty good job of reducing ghosting and flaring with its Super Multi-Layer lens coating. Chromatic aberration (color fringing) is not much of an issue either although that also depends on which camera theory your using the Sigma 10mm with. Nikon is clearly the winner when it comes to Chromatic Aberration.

Product Features of the Sigma 10mm Fisheye

With a weight of approximately 17 ounces, 3.3 inches long and 3 inches in diameter, the Sigma 10mm is a microscopic heftier than similar lenses put out by Canon or Nikon. This is due mostly to Sigma's built-in Hypersonic Motor which runs Sigma's super fast and silent Auto Focus system.

The Sigma 10mm Fisheye Lens has a close focus range of 5.3 inches from the rear of the lens which means you can get as close as 3/4 of an inch to your field matter. I don't recommend anybody get that close with a fisheye lens for the easy guess that you can't use protective filters on the front lens element of any fisheye lens.

The Sigma's fast and quiet Auto Focus responds quite well to most low light situations without too much "hunting" going on. When shooting in dim light and low Discrepancy situations you can honestly switch over to manual override by activating the Af/M switch on the upper left side of the lens barrel.

Is the Sigma 10mm Right For You?

For those Nikon owners using cameras without the built-in auto focus it's Sigma's high ability Af that usually wins them over. If your a Nikon shooter and you don't fall into that type then I'd stick with the Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 Fisheye Lens.

Canon 1.6x crop shooters have been neglected in the fisheye lens group for years. Canon recently came out with the 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye Zoom Lens that is designed to work with its entire lineup of Slr's. As I write this it's not yet ready for sale, but, as an "L" series lens it's bound to be quite expensive, so I think the Sigma 10mm will continue to be favorite with Canon users seeing for a more affordable alternative.

What about Sony Alpha users? Sony has a 16mm fisheye lens for it's full frame Slr's, but nothing for the smaller sensors. You can get a converter for this lens, but that only adds to the cost of the already pricey Sony 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye. The Sigma 10mm represents a more affordable alternative.

Pentax has a 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens for its users and is about 0 - 0 cheaper than the Sigma 10mm. The Sigma is by all means; of course the great lens but of procedure it lacks the versatility of Pentax's native fisheye lens. The big request for Pentax users is: ability or versatility?

Whether your a serious hobbyist or a seasoned professional the Sigma 10mm Fisheye Lens delivers high ability images. This lens is clearly a winner.

The Sigma 10mm Fisheye: The Right Fisheye Lens For Your Camera?

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A Closer Look at Purchasing Camera Lenses Like the Canon Lens

Canon is a top camera business that produces not just cameras but accessories. Canon lens are made to be interchangeable with most cameras. Camera Lens are an requisite tool to the photographer. Each lens provides a different assistance to the user. Some of the more common uses are: to get a closer shot, color balance, and other optic effects.

[b]Lens[/b]

Most camera lens are bought separately. There are some fellowships that offer exact packages that will come with at least one lens. Your best bet is to look into lenses at camera specialty stores. Those who are new to photography might want to do a diminutive bit of research to find out what they might need. Lenses may not be something they will need to worry about yet, especially if they are just starting out.

One of the first steps to looking into lenses is to find out the different kinds. You can use the Internet or talk to anything you know that are into photography. Many will be able to tell you what to look for when you are buying lenses. When surfing the Internet for information, type in Camera Lenses. Also crusade various manufacturers. Some of those websites will have great information for you.

It is also a good idea to visit a store that specializes in cameras and lenses that go with them. Talk to the salespeople there, and get all of your questions answers. Find out about pricing too. Ordinarily the higher prices are the more pro cameras. You might also want to make sure that your camera is compatible before production any purchase. Bring your camera into the shop, and let the professionals tell you what lenses will work. They know best.

Lenses are not the only supplies you should look into if you are thinking about going pro with your photography. You may also want to look into tripods, photography software for your computer, and a lot of books. These will all help you take the best pictures possible.

Several books are out there that can offer tips and tricks about getting very good shots in nature. Taking photography classes are also a good idea. There you can learn a lot of things about the process. No matter where you go buy your Canon lens, or other lenses it is all the time a good idea to do a lot of research. It's leading to make sure that you know what to get.

A Closer Look at Purchasing Camera Lenses Like the Canon Lens

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#2 Digital Camera mend problem - Broken Lens

We live in a throw-away society, it's a simple fact. You buy that brand new fancy digital camera with all the bells and whistles for 0, and in 6 months to 1 year it's worth maybe half that, and then the unthinkable happens: you drop it and it breaks. The Lcd is cracked, or the lens is jammed; what do you do?

[b]Lens[/b]

You can get digital camera repair for a lot of money, or if you shop nearby you can get find affordable digital camera repair on the internet! Gotta love the internet!

There are options, there are all the time alternatives to every problem. Honest! Yes, it may cost 0 to fix your camera, and yes you can buy that camera in the bubble pack on the shelf at W**l M**t (they don't pay my bills... I don't advertise their name, sorry) for less than 0, but what kind of ability do you genuinely expect from a 0 camera? Not very good ability I hope, because you're not going to get it.

Ok, digital camera lens repair is as common as Lcd repair, but it's #2 on my list because it's harder to repair a digital camera lens and there are so many different types of lens problems whereas a broken Lcd is a broken Lcd no matter how you look at it.

- Do not leave the batteries in your camera in the camera bag. The power button can be pressed accidentally causing the lens to expand and get jammed because it cannot open properly inside the bag. - Try not to drop the camera with the lens extended. - Don't ever pull or twist on a lens that is not working 100% properly, you will just break it.

I would have to write a book to fully expound lens problems fully (hmm.. Maybe a good idea!) so I will try and keep it simple and informative.

The lens is made up of many different parts... Let's start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the lens elements. The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and usually has a extra coating on it that you Do Not want to clean off with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something similar. It's not the end of the world, and don't worry about it if it's missing. Just keep the lens clean (why are there fingerprints on your lens anyway??) and scratch free.

The inner-most lens element is responsible for the fine focus and resides directly in front of the Ccd. When you press the shutter button half way down to focus, this part moves forwards and backwards till it's in the accurate position and your image is in focus. You won't be messing with this part of the lens... Unless you feel like removing the lens from the camera and then tearing down the lens to get at it's 'guts'. It's kinda fun the first time, but uh... I wish you luck getting it back together properly. The tearing apart stuff is fun, the putting it back together is a drag!

The lens has two small motors with their own gears that join together to the two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get One Grain of sand in these gears, they will jam and the lens will "error out" as we like to say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it's not easy. Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 different gears that must be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already jammed, why not see how it works, right?

Then there is the Ccd, "charge-coupled device" which translates the light that enters the lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.

There was a very large Ccd recall for Sony camera lens repair over the past few years that covers many manufacturers and not just Sony, as Sony provided the Ccds to many others for their cameras. The defective Ccd's cause the camera to take solid black photos, or purple/pink "dripping paint" photos, or they have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If your camera does this, call the constructor and tell them you want a repair under the Ccd recall no matter how old your camera is! If it's on the list, you might get your camera repaired for free.

Got spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and out? Most likely there is a spec of dust on your Ccd. You will need to take off the lens and then take off the Ccd from the back of the lens and clean it off. Don't lose the gasket that goes nearby the Ccd, don't get any other dirt inside the lens and don't leave any fingerprints! Tall order I know, sorry, I'm demanding. =)

Let's see... What else? Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle because the camera was dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section of the lens Must be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for this section to apply, and you may consequent this advice At Your Own Risk. The following repair trick works, but I am not responsible for your actions or anyone you do to your camera.

Ok, it's stuck at an angle and you want to try and repair your camera lens yourself. No problem.

Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the "Canon Zoom Lens..." chrome ring section flat on the table. The rounded edge of the lens must be what makes palpate here. Now... Here is the tricky part... Press the angled part of the lens back into alignment by pushing down on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the Lens below the angled part to withhold it and press firmly but still gently (how do I do that? I don't know.. You just do it) and the lens will whether Pop!! back into place and work perfectly or it won't budge and no harm will be done, -Or- one of the "guide pins" that run inside a small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just destroyed the lens.

I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera repair is fun... Right?

Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, and potential solutions. If you want to buy a lens for your camera there are several ways to do it which comprise calling the manufacturer; but they will want 5+ for the lens, guaranteed.

Do a Google hunt for "digital camera parts" and you will see at #1 the only site that has affordable digital camera repair and Diy parts.

#2 Digital Camera mend problem - Broken Lens

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Qtsi 35mm - The Ideal Minolta Slr Camera Kit With changeable Lens

I've been waiting for years for an Slr camera model to come out that has changeable lenses and has the vibe of an instamatic camera. A camera that would be affordable and user-friendly even to amateur users by development the focusing, and customization and adjustment of settings a breeze. This is exactly what I found in the Minolta Slr camera Qtsi 35mm kit. The bundled 35-80mm lens is great for taking closeup shots and extending shooting distance.

[b]Lens[/b]

If you want to take closeup or telephoto shots, all you have to do is add one or two lenses and you're all set. The Minolta Qtsi also comes bundled with a flash that lets you capture spectacular, photos even in low-light or dark conditions, given your subjects are within the covered length of the flash. You also have the choice of attaching a larger flash if you want to take photos from greater distances.

The Minolta Qtsi's automatic Focus or Af feature is also a big help to those who wear contact lenses or glasses or have poor vision. Thanks to the Minolta Qtsi's Af feature, no longer will you get those out-of-focus shots. The camera also has a feature that lets you eliminate red eye in close up shots. The Qtsi's tripod comes in handy if you want to take shots on 10-second timer mode.

The Maxxum Qtsi also has the vibe of a point and shoot camera because of its ease of use and auto-programming of settings. The camera has an auto-exposure feature which lets you pick among five preset modes or settings for exposure: portraits, sports, night scenes, landscapes, and close-ups. I tried out each of the modes and was able to come up with great pictures and without complications. Other great thing about the camera is that at an affordable price, you will get the 35-80mm Minolta zoom lens along with the lightweight camera. The camera is also compatible with all of the lenses in Minolta's Af line as well as with filters and lenses of other brands.

The downside, however, is that Minolta Slr camera models seem to have a two to three year lifespan. I used the Qtsi for two years until I began to contact electrical problems with it. Two of my friends who also used Minolta cameras complained of the same thing after using their Slrs for two to three years. Other drawback is that the Minolta Maxxum Qtsi doesn't have a B or Bulb mode, so you can't use it for astrophotography or for taking longer exposure pictures.

If you're a casual or amateur photographer, the Qtsi is a good choice because it's affordable, easy to use, and has great picture quality.

Qtsi 35mm - The Ideal Minolta Slr Camera Kit With changeable Lens

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6 Tips to Keep Your Camera Lens Clean!

Dirt on your Dslr lens is one of the main factors that reduces the image capability of your photos. Although some defects caused by small spots may be repairable in post processing, larger dirts most probably will probably make your photo useless. Even a tiny stain that you haven't noticed or ignored during the shoot out can ruin hours of hard work at the end of the day. The most foremost fact that you have to reconsider before cleaning your lens is to pick a proper recipe to make sure you don't scratch your lens surface.

[b]Lens[/b]

Here we present 6 tips for you to effectively clean (and keep clean) your Dslr lens without giving any damage to it. Remember most of these methods presented here are also applicable to ageement digicam and other kind of optical devices:

1 - Use a Uv (Ultraviolet) Filter

This relatively cheap filter is a perfect security for your critical lens, both from dirt and other impacts. You will be cleaning the filter, thus minimizing the risk of scratching the actual lens surface. We suggest you to keep this filter attached all times, but remember to pick a high capability one otherwise it may degrade the capability of the yield image. Since dissimilar lenses may have dissimilar filter diameters, you may have to purchase one for each of your lens.

2- Use lens hoods, and lens caps for both front and back end of your lens

The benefits are obvious, keep them attached all the time. Do not forget to keep the lens caps clean when they are not attached.

3- Don't let dust get in to your camera body

Dust inside your Dslr will attach to the back end element of your lens and also to the image sensor, duplicate trouble. When you are changing lenses, try to find a place with minimum dust and wind, and aim your camera to the floor to minimize the chance of dust getting inside.

4- Use a Blower

Blowers can be used directly to the lens and also inside of your camera. This is a very gather way of cleaning your lens since there is no corporeal sense with the glass, but on the other hand not very sufficient as the others.

5- Get a Lens Cleaning Fluid

A small estimate of alcohol based lens cleaning fluid makes it eaiser to wipe oil, fingerprints and contaminants off your lens. Lens cleaning fluids are applied to your lens by the help of a cleaning cloth or tissue, instead of directly pouring on the lens surface. Check the lens surface and cleaning clothes to make sure there is no big particles because these particles can stratch your lens in fact while cleaning. An alternative to alcohol based cleaning fluids is to plainly breathe on the glass then clean it with a cloth. If this doesn't get enough, you may pick to use the fluids.

6- Use a Lens Cleaning Pen

Lens Cleaning Pens are in fact beneficial tools with a cleaning pad on one side and a brush on the other. The retractable brush made of soft bristles is used to dust away the hard particles and contaminants. I would suggest you to buy a high capability one with very soft brush to avoid scratching the glass.

I would like to remind that the best security solutions for your lens is the preventive methods: Stop contaminants before getting on your lens surface. Do not use the cleaning methods those requires corporeal sense until there is no other option left. And buy the top capability tools which minimizes the risk of scratching your critical lenses.

6 Tips to Keep Your Camera Lens Clean!

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Olympus 261505 ED M40-150mm f4.0-5.6 Lens for Camera (Black)

Sale Price : $250.00

GSI Super Quality Detachable Wide Angle Lens for the iPhone 4-4G, Turn your iPhone into a High-End Camera!

Sale Price : $19.99

GSI Super Quality Photo Package for Apple iPhone's Camera - Long Focal 8x Zoom Optical Telephoto Extended 30x70mm Lens - Includes Velvet Case and Cleaning Cloth - Turn your iPhone 4-4G into a High-End Camera!

Sale Price : $29.99

GSI Super Quality Photo Package for Apple iPhone's Camera - Long Focal 8x Zoom Optical Telephoto Extended 30x70mm Lens - Includes Velvet Case and Cleaning Cloth - Turn your iPhone 4-4G into a High-End Camera!

Sale Price : $29.99

safety Camera Lens - The Key Component of Cctv drive

A protection camera's most prominent part is the protection camera lens. The lens is what determines how sharp and clear the images on a Cctv camera can be. It also decides how much or how slight the protection administrators will be able to view at any given time.

[b]Lens[/b]

There are some lenses that are capable of giving a better, clearer look. Some lenses have special zoom functions that give the user a occasion to zero in on an item or detail being captured at that place. A Cctv camera can use a telescopic lens to study far side of a room or area. It gives the clearest image over different distances from the camera.

Another aspect of the Cctv protection camera lens is its use indoors or outdoors. Many cameras that are to be installed outdoors will examine a different set of features to suit different environments. To keep a camera fully functional outdoors, it must be able to keep running despite shifts in temperature, humidity and light. A shift from day to night can cause glass to fog, or resolutions to drop. For this, there are some lenses that adapt to the environment. These cameras have lenses that keep moisture from sticking to the glass. This ensures that it will not be susceptible to a unavoidable threshold of frost and condensation, which would cause it to lose image clarity.

This need not cost a lot of money. Instead of buying new expensive cameras for a system, most opt to upgrade the camera lens and attach it to a simple Cctv camera.

safety Camera Lens - The Key Component of Cctv drive

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Sony 75-300mm f/4.5-5.6 Compact Super Telephoto Zoom Lens for Sony Alpha Digital SLR Camera

Tips for Purchasing a Digital Camera Lens

Your lens is an significant element to good photographs. It's not just your camera. Population spend thousands of dollars on a good camera and neglect the lens.

[b]Lens[/b]

Change that around! Make sure you buy a good camera lens when purchasing a camera. Buy a good camera as well, but don't neglect a good camera lens.

Why? Your camera is just the 'holder' for the photograph. The lens is what your camera sees all your shots through. A good lens is significant to clear and sharp photos.

With most covenant digital cameras, you can't turn the lens. So in that case, don't just buy a good camera, ensure it also has a good lens.

Avoid a plastic digital camera lens because it doesn't have the clarity of a glass lens.

What model of lens?

Stick with camera lenses from well known manufacturers like Nikon, Canon and Pentax. Ensure you purchase a lens that works with your camera too. A Nikon camera lens ordinarily won't work well with a Canon camera.

There are specialty lens manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, Leica and Leupold. If you're a beginner, don't worry about these lenses until you are more advanced as they come with very high prices and it's hard to by comparison the price for the small increase in quality.

Types of Camera Lens

The most common lenses are : Wide Angle, general and Telephoto. The type of lens is carefully by the Focal distance of the lens. See below. A Zoom Lens is plainly a lens that can turn Focal distance from a Wide Angle to a Telephoto (or somewhere inbetween).

There are a estimate of things to look for when purchasing a camera lens.

Lens Focal Length

The Focal distance of a lens determines the estimate of magnification and angle of vuew the lens can see. The Focal distance is measured in mm. It's the Focal distance that determines if the lens is a:

- Wide Angle; small magnification, wide angle of view. 20mm to 35mm

- Traditional, or Normal; 50mm

- Telephoto; high magnification, narrow angle of view; 105mm to 300mm.

- Zoom; A Zoom lens can turn it's focal distance to zoom in. A Zoom lens might have a Focal distance of in the middle of 50mm and 150mm.

Some lenses are interchangeable in the middle of film cameras and digital cameras, but you need to be aware that the effective focal distance Changes in the middle of film and digital. The focal lengths I recapitulate above are for Film cameras and need to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the effective focal distance on a digital camera. So using a film 35mm lens on a digital camera has an effective focal distance of 56mm.

What does this mean for you? It means that you won't get as wide angle on a digital camera as you would on a film camera using the same lens. A 35mm lens which gives a medium wide angle on a film camera acts as a former lens on a digital camera

This is a complicated subject, so I can't go into too much information here. If you need more help, the best man to speak to would be your local camera store's resident expert.

Lens Speed

The 'speed' of a digital camera lens also defines a lens. The speed is carefully in f-stops and is similar to the f-stop aperture setting on your camera. Faster lenses are more expensive and ordinarily heavier.

Focusing Distance

This is the minimum distance from the camera lens that a branch must be to be in focus. Don't worry about getting a camera with a close focusing distance. Concentrate on a telephoto instead.

More advanced Features

More expensive lenses have more advanced features.

- Vibration Reduction. A highlight called 'vibration reduction' keeps images sharper when shooting in low light. They help to counter any vibration in the camera. Try to find a digital camera lens with this feature.

- Usm Usm stands for Ultrasonic Motor. This highlight of Canon lenses gives you a high speed auto focus but the main benefit is the 'motor' is roughly silent, so you don't disturb Population around you when your camera is focussing.

- Filter Thread. When purchasing a half-decent lens, it should have a filter thread. This is a thread that allows you to screw on a filter (such as a polariser) to help when photographing difficult situations. Even if you don't need filters right now. It's handy to purchase a lens with a thread so you can add a filter later.

You get what you pay for

Generally the more expensive the lens, the better it is. More expensive lenses ordinarily have a higher estimate of glass elements in the lens, which also makes them heavier.

Final Notes

While it is prominent to pick good potential camera lens, for beginners it isn't as prominent as good composition. Don't fall into the trap of mental you can only take a great photo with an expensive top-of-the-line lens. A badly composed photo won't look great with a great camera lens.

I don't mean to allowance the significance of a good potential lens. A good rule is to only add to your lens variety only when you have a specific need for a singular digital camera lens.

Do your investigate and your homework first, and find the lens that suits both you and your camera.

Tips for Purchasing a Digital Camera Lens

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Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF Nikkor SLR Camera Lens

Sale Price : $145.64

The Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye Lens for Nikon Dx Camera Users

The Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye Lens is designed for Nikon's Dx lineup of Digital Slr's with the1.5x crop sensors. This lens is a 180 degree "full frame" diagonal fisheye. No circular images with this lens. Fx users can also use this lens, but in order to take full benefit of these cameras full frame sensors your best off going with the Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye instead.

[b]Lens[/b]

If your a Nikon Dx user and your looking for a fisheye lens that delivers sharp, crisp images with beautiful saturation and standout difference then you need look no added than the Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 Fisheye Lens.

Since it first came out in 2003 this lens has been a hit with Nikon users who love shooting wide angle. The Nikkor 10.5 fisheye has even managed to originate a cult following among skateboard shooters who love being right in the center of the action.

Features of the Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye Lens

With a maximum aperture of f/2.8 the Nikkor 10.5 is a fast lens allowing the photographer to shoot in low light conditions. You can safely shoot at 1/10th of second without using a tripod with this lens providing you have a steady hand. Great for those who love to shoot in low light conditions! The minimum aperture of the Nikkor is f/22.

With a Close Focus Range of 5.5 inches - 1.25 inches from the front of the lens - you can move in very close with the Nikkor 10.5mm Fisheye with very precise focusing thanks to Nikons special Crc (Close Range Correction) focusing technology. One thing to keep in mind when using this lens is that you don't get too close with it and scratch the lens! This is very easy to do with a fisheye lens since objects appear farther away than they indeed are. As with any fisheye lens you can't use protective filters because there are no threads on the front of the lens.

Like other high quality fisheyes, the Nikkor is set up to use rear gel filters for those who like the choice of shooting with filters when the need arises.

At only 2.5 inches long and 2.5 inches in diameter, the Nikkor 10.5mm is a very light weight and contract lens weighing in at a mere 10.7 ounces. Constructed with10 lens elements in 7 groups this limited Nikkor is a tough lens.

AutoFocus on the Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye

There's good news and bad news here. Auto Focus is very fast on this lens as long as your using a Nikon that has the built-in focus motor. If your using Nikons like the D40/D40x or D60, then your out of luck since the Nikkor 10.5mm itself has no built-in focus motor. This doesn't bother many Nikon users since this lens is in focus most of the time anyways because of its small focal distance and the ultimate depth of field you always get with a fisheye lens.

For those who insist on having Auto focus many Nikon Dx users have turned to the Sigma 10mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens for Nikon which does have a built-in Hsm focus motor.

All in all, the Nikkor 10.5 fisheye lens is a winner and you won't be disappointed with it unless having Af is primary for you and if you fall into the kind of Nikon users who don't have built-in auto focus motors with their digital cameras.

The Nikkor 10.5 Fisheye Lens for Nikon Dx Camera Users

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The Best & Worst Digital Camera Telephoto Lenses of 2009

Before showering praise or annotation on any definite telephoto lens, it may be worthwhile to expel a few words on exactly what a camera telephoto lens is, and what it does.

[b]Lens[/b]

In a nutshell, a telephoto lens brings the branch targeted by the photographer, closer to that said photographer. And as a result, produces a still photo or video for any subsequent viewers that is larger, more detailed and exhibits greater clarity then could have been achieved without the benefit of an further lens. A somewhat more technical definition would be a lens that is built from a rather long focal distance lens, but where the actual tangible distance of this lens is less than the desired focal length. That is not to suggest, that every lens with a longer focal distance than normal is a true telephoto lens. A true telephoto lens will comprise a aggregate of rear lenses ofter referred to as the telephoto group.

There are a few points to think when buying a digital camera telephoto lens.

It's leading to know what camera or cameras, you intend to use the lens with. Different makes, models, and manufacturers often have their own lens mounting systems. Some maybe uncomplicated screw lenses, while others may have more elaborate mounting mechanisms.

Consider the branch environment you will be shooting in. While telephoto lens lend themselves to definite types of subjects, such as sporting events, wildlife photography, watch work and landscape vistas, that's not to propose that they aren't also used for fashion or wedding photography.

If you never used a zoom lens much in the past, then sales staff can be an invaluable resource. They deal with this type of equipment on a daily basis, are often more than will to share their opinions. They may be somewhat biased, especially if their working on commission, so be sure to take what they say with a grain of salt. A good source of unbiased facts can be found online. The more reputable online sites like Amazon, comprise tons of real users who often share their stock perceive in online reviews.

Reading manuals for the definite models can be helpful as well. Most manufacturers these days, place their stock manuals online in Pdf form. If you Google around a bit online, you should be able to find the manual of the stock your looking for.

Now speaking of the best lens I and a amount of happy customers would propose are:

Canon Ef 70-200mm f/4L Usm Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon Slr Cameras
This lens is great for anything who wants to try out a L-series lens in the 10-200 mm focal distance range, and not spend a whole ton of money. At the time of writing this, I'm looking this lens for under 0. Additionally, if your tired of hauling around the much heavier 70-200mm f/2.8L Is, this may be a best lens for you. Remember, this lens doesn't comprise Is, so that may or may not be a deal breaker for you.

Canon Ef 70-200mm f/2.8L Is Usm Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon Slr Cameras

If money is less leading than the potential of your photographs, then it may be time to step up to this lens. It goes for around 00 new, or a concentrate hundred less used. It does however comprise image stabilization, which is leading if a tripod is not an selection for your photo shoots.

Canon Ef 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L Is Usm Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon Slr Cameras

Some of the things to unmistakably like about this lens, comprise the excellent sharpness and clarity. An auto focus that is both darn near silent, and fast. Also included is a dual image stabilization system. It is on the downside of policy a heavy lens, which I'm sure your well aware of, if you've been doing your research with other telephoto lenses in this category.

The Best & Worst Digital Camera Telephoto Lenses of 2009

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#2 Digital Camera fix qoute - Broken Lens

We live in a throw-away society, it's a uncomplicated fact. You buy that brand new fancy digital camera with all the bells and whistles for 0, and in 6 months to 1 year it's worth maybe half that, and then the unthinkable happens: you drop it and it breaks. The Lcd is cracked, or the lens is jammed; what do you do?

[b]Lens[/b]

You can get digital camera heal for a lot of money, or if you shop colse to you can get find affordable digital camera heal on the internet! Gotta love the internet!

There are options, there are all the time alternatives to every problem. Honest! Yes, it may cost 0 to fix your camera, and yes you can buy that camera in the bubble pack on the shelf at W**l M**t (they don't pay my bills... I don't advertise their name, sorry) for less than 0, but what kind of quality do you precisely expect from a 0 camera? Not very good quality I hope, because you're not going to get it.

Ok, digital camera lens heal is as coarse as Lcd repair, but it's #2 on my list because it's harder to heal a digital camera lens and there are so many distinct types of lens problems whereas a broken Lcd is a broken Lcd no matter how you look at it.

I would have to write a book to fully justify lens problems fully (hmm.. Maybe a good idea!) so I will try and keep it uncomplicated and informative.

The lens is made up of many distinct parts... Let's start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the lens elements. The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and commonly has a extra coating on it that you Do Not want to clean off with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something similar. It's not the end of the world, and don't worry about it if it's missing. Just keep the lens clean (why are there fingerprints on your lens anyway??) and scratch free.

The lens has two small motors with their own gears that associate to the two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get One Grain of sand in these gears, they will jam and the lens will "error out" as we like to say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it's not easy. Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 distinct gears that must be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already jammed, why not see how it works, right?

Then there is the Ccd, "charge-coupled device" which translates the light that enters the lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.

There was a very large Ccd recall for Sony camera lens heal over the past few years that covers many manufacturers and not just Sony, as Sony in case,granted the Ccds to many others for their cameras. The defective Ccd's cause the camera to take solid black photos, or purple/pink "dripping paint" photos, or they have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If your camera does this, call the manufacturer and tell them you want a heal under the Ccd recall no matter how old your camera is! If it's on the list, you might get your camera repaired for free.

Got spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and out? Most likely there is a spec of dust on your Ccd. You will need to remove the lens and then remove the Ccd from the back of the lens and clean it off. Don't lose the gasket that goes colse to the Ccd, don't get any other dirt inside the lens and don't leave any fingerprints! Tall order I know, sorry, I'm demanding. =)

Let's see... What else? Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle because the camera was dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section of the lens Must be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for this section to apply, and you may effect this guidance At Your Own Risk. The following heal trick works, but I am not responsible for your actions or anyone you do to your camera.

Ok, it's stuck at an angle and you want to try and heal your camera lens yourself. No problem.

Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the "Canon Zoom Lens..." chrome ring section flat on the table. The rounded edge of the lens must be what makes caress here. Now... Here is the tricky part... Press the angled part of the lens back into alignment by pushing down on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the Lens below the angled part to sustain it and press firmly but still gently (how do I do that? I don't know.. You just do it) and the lens will either Pop!! back into place and work perfectly or it won't budge and no harm will be done, -Or- one of the "guide pins" that run inside a small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just destroyed the lens.

I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera heal is fun... Right?

Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, and inherent solutions. If you want to buy a lens for your camera there are several ways to do it which include calling the manufacturer; but they will want 5+ for the lens, guaranteed.

Do a Google search for "digital camera parts" and you will see at #1 the only site that has affordable digital camera heal and Diy parts.

#2 Digital Camera fix qoute - Broken Lens

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Opteka HD² 0.20X Professional Super AF Fisheye Lens for Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT, XTi, XS, XSi, T1i, T2i, 1D, 5D, 7D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D Digital SLR Camera

Sale Price : $49.95

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