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How to choose the Best Lens for My Camera

If you are still using a point and shoot film or digital camera, your choice of lens speed is small to the camera. Any way for those of you who decided that it is time to move on and upgrade to an interchangeable lens camera, whether it happens to be film, or digital, you are no doubt have been seeing at the many lens options available. Large majority of citizen switch from a point and shoot to a particular Lens Reflex camera. While overwhelming percentage of citizen move to a Digital Slr, Film Slrs are still popular, and function essentially the same. So, for the purpose of this article, the two types will be treated as one. Lenses are ready in so many dissimilar combinations, and varieties, that discussing them all is far beyond the scope of this article. However, they all have one thing in common. They are all broken down into two groups: slow, and fast. If you are still struggling with choosing your first lens, or just trying to make the right decision, while faced with many choices, this report should help.

[b]Lens[/b]

First of all, the speed of the lens is carefully by the size of the opening, known as the aperture. The larger the opening the faster the lens is carefully to be. Typically, lenses marked with F4, F3.5, F2.8, and smaller are carefully fast, while lenses marked with a bigger estimate are slower. I know this may sound odd, but the smaller the estimate the faster the lens. If you are new to shooting with an Slr camera, you are most likely seeing at “zoom” lenses. Most zooms today have a changeable aperture. This plainly means that at the shortest end, the lens is faster than at the long end. For example, a typical lens a 28-80mm. This lens zooms from 28mm to 80mm, and it is a very good starter lens. This type of a lens will typically have a F3.5 gap ,break at 28mm (short end), while at 80mm (long end) it will be F4.5, or F5.6, which is considerably slower than the short end. Typically, the faster the lens, the more it will cost, and the heavier it will be. Most casual shooters look for very versatile lenses, and faster lenses precisely offer more flexibility in inescapable situations.

Now that we briefly discussed the belief of speed, lets shape out whether you precisely need a fast lens. The first thing that you have to think about is your shooting habits. Everybody is different, and very much unique. Some shoot landscapes, some only people, others night scenes, some shoot under water, and so forth. Typical casual shooter will likely shoot during daytime, and will likely be shooting portraits, landscapes, city scenes (during a vacation perhaps), and other fairly undemanding environments. If you shoot a lot of photos in dim light, like night clubs, restaurants, museums, outdoors after dark, and other dim light situations, a faster lens is right on a boon. However, you should always keep in mind that most zoom lenses, while faster at the short end, will be slower at the long end. This is very important, because if are going to be shooting at the longer end of the lens, when shopping for a lens, keep this in mind, and you will save yourself some money. Let me explain. Take two lenses, one is a 28-80mm f2.8(short end) / f5.6(long end), and an additional one lens, 28-80mm f3.5 / f 5.6. These two have an identical range, Any way the first is faster at the short end. This larger gap ,break does not come free. You may end up paying 2 times as much as the second lens. If you are going to be mostly zooming to the long end of the range, compare and price your lens at that end.

If you are going to be shooting mostly portraits and other static landscape and plan to use flash, or a tripod most of the time, you will not need a very fast lens, because the added speed will likely be of small benefit to you. As such, you will do just fine with a F4.0 or slower. Performance shooters often benefit from faster lenses, and if you are planning to capture sports, animals, and other spicy subjects, a faster lens may help at times. The particular biggest benefit of a faster lens is the freedom it gives you, when the light is limited. If you are an Performance shooter, and capture a lot of Performance in dim light, the extra speed will be very helpful, and allow you more hand-held shooting. always rate how much you are going to be shooting in dissimilar environments. Performance and low light shooters will most benefit from lenses with apertures of F4.0, and larger. If you think low light, and Performance will be very infrequent, and you are comparing two similar lenses, choose the funds one, which will likely be just a bit slower. Often, a price of a zoom lens with just a slightly smaller gap ,break at the long end will be hundreds or dollars less than a similarly sized zoom with a slightly larger aperture.

Most modern Digital Slrs can precisely offset the need for a fast lens straight through higher Iso settings, something that Film cameras do by using a faster film. With Film cameras, you would need to switch a roll of film to turn the Iso speed. If you use a Digital Slr, switching an Iso is easy, and could be done at any time. This is a huge benefit, and reduces a need for the faster lenses. Unless you are planning to make money with your camera gear, fastest lenses will not be cost effective.

Consider borrowing, or renting a fast lens, in the range which will meet your shooting needs, and test it in the dissimilar environments in which you will be shooting. If you are not pushing the limits of the lens, chances are, you will be Ok with a slower, more funds cordial alternative. Make sure that you know your budget, and how actively you will be involved in photography. If you plan to trade-up your equipment in a few years, keep in mind that technology only gets better, and manufacture a big investment will make more sense if you are going to get a lot of use out of it.

How to choose the Best Lens for My Camera

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Canon Portrait Lens On a funds - How To choose A Portrait Lens

Getting a good portrait lens is not difficult, but knowing which ones qualify is important. Before you go out and make a purchase, you should take a look into your camera bag to see if you may have a Canon portrait lens in there cleverly disguised as.. Let's say a Macro lens or maybe a sports performance lens.

[b]Lens[/b]

The first issue is to decree what the qualifications of a good Canon portrait lens no ifs ands or buts are. But in the process, keep in mind that you want to save money.

I hope this does not burst your bubble. I mean, photographers are kind of like fishermen and golfers. We are all the time under the impression that we need the next new camera or lens that comes out. Or, like my mother-in-law used to say, "If you don't have it, you need it." While the grass may be greener on the other side of the fence where your neighbor has a Canon Ef 135mm f/2.0 portrait lens that she paid 00 for, it's potential that you can get by with something that you either already own or that costs just a tad bit less.

Ok, real quick, the qualifications:

1. Image quality - this has to be no ifs ands or buts good. You do not want a lens that has poor image quality. After all, you will be shooting people, and most habitancy are very vain about their appearance. It's not like taking a photograph of a monkey or bear at the zoo. Those animals don't care what their photograph looks like.

To find out either the lens in quiz, will qualify as a Canon portrait lens with respect to image quality, check some specialist sites. But keep in mind that these guys are going to be very technical. You might just want to go to the Amazon or B & H Photo website and check user reviews. In that case, look for reviews from developed amateurs or professionals. They will also be fairly reliable.

2. Focal length - Portraits can be taken with a lens that is as short as 50mm or as long as 300mm. Some of the pros use the extra long length to get the great bokeh, but normal portrait shooters use a lens of about 85mm to 135mm. The good news is that if you have an entry-level or mid-level digital Slr, you have what is known as a crop factor, which naturally means that your camera multiplies the focal length of the lens by either 1.5 or 1.6 depending on the make of the camera. So if you have a 100mm lens, multiply it by the crop factor of, say 1.6, and you have an effective focal length of 160mm. And a 50mm lens becomes an effective focal length of 85mm. Of course, the shorter the focal length, the closer you will be to your subject. That's why a wide angle lens of 28mm will not be your best bet for a portrait lens.

3. Aperture - The cleft is no ifs ands or buts important. The wider the aperture, the good your chances for getting the nice blurry background that is desirable in this type of photography. You want a minimum of f/4.0 for longer length lenses, such as a 180mm lens, and at least an f/2.8 for the shorter lenses, such as 50mm. The larger the aperture, the good your background will be. But you also need a good sharp focus on the eyes because there is a very shallow depth of field with the wider apertures.

Generally, single focal length lenses are preferred for portraits, but that is not a hard and fast rule. Some photographers use their Canon 70-200 mm lens for this and are very happy with it.

Ok, so there is a wide range of possibilities here. Going back to the first suggestion, look into your camera bag and see which, if any, of your current lenses fit the qualifications. If you still need to purchase a Canon portrait lens, stride with patience. Getting a lens that can do two or three types of images is also a viable option.

One last thing. Third party lenses, like Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina are also great ways to save a few bucks. There are some perfect lenses made by these manufacturers, but make sure you check what the experts and others who have used them say in forums and online comment areas.

Canon Portrait Lens On a funds - How To choose A Portrait Lens

Amazon Kindle DX Review

Read more
0

Canon Portrait Lens On a allocation - How To choose A Portrait Lens

Getting a good portrait lens is not difficult, but knowing which ones qualify is important. Before you go out and make a purchase, you should take a look into your camera bag to see if you may have a Canon portrait lens in there cleverly disguised as.. Let's say a Macro lens or maybe a sports activity lens.

[b]Lens[/b]

The first issue is to decree what the qualifications of a good Canon portrait lens honestly are. But in the process, keep in mind that you want to save money.

I hope this does not burst your bubble. I mean, photographers are kind of like fishermen and golfers. We are all the time under the impression that we need the next new camera or lens that comes out. Or, like my mother-in-law used to say, "If you don't have it, you need it." While the grass may be greener on the other side of the fence where your neighbor has a Canon Ef 135mm f/2.0 portrait lens that she paid 00 for, it's possible that you can get by with something that you whether already own or that costs just a tad bit less.

Ok, real quick, the qualifications:

1. Image quality - this has to be honestly good. You do not want a lens that has poor image quality. After all, you will be shooting people, and most habitancy are very vain about their appearance. It's not like taking a picture of a monkey or bear at the zoo. Those animals don't care what their picture looks like.

To find out whether the lens in ask will qualify as a Canon portrait lens with respect to image quality, check some specialist sites. But keep in mind that these guys are going to be very technical. You might just want to go to the Amazon or B & H Photo website and check user reviews. In that case, look for reviews from developed amateurs or professionals. They will also be fairly reliable.

2. Focal length - Portraits can be taken with a lens that is as short as 50mm or as long as 300mm. Some of the pros use the extra long distance to get the great bokeh, but normal portrait shooters use a lens of about 85mm to 135mm. The good news is that if you have an entry-level or mid-level digital Slr, you have what is known as a crop factor, which simply means that your camera multiplies the focal distance of the lens by whether 1.5 or 1.6 depending on the make of the camera. So if you have a 100mm lens, multiply it by the crop factor of, say 1.6, and you have an effective focal distance of 160mm. And a 50mm lens becomes an effective focal distance of 85mm. Of course, the shorter the focal length, the closer you will be to your subject. That's why a wide angle lens of 28mm will not be your best bet for a portrait lens.

3. Aperture - The aperture is honestly important. The wider the aperture, the better your chances for getting the nice blurry background that is desirable in this type of photography. You want a minimum of f/4.0 for longer distance lenses, such as a 180mm lens, and at least an f/2.8 for the shorter lenses, such as 50mm. The larger the aperture, the better your background will be. But you also need a good sharp focus on the eyes because there is a very shallow depth of field with the wider apertures.

Generally, single focal distance lenses are preferred for portraits, but that is not a hard and fast rule. Some photographers use their Canon 70-200 mm lens for this and are very happy with it.

Ok, so there is a wide range of possibilities here. Going back to the first suggestion, look into your camera bag and see which, if any, of your current lenses fit the qualifications. If you still need to buy a Canon portrait lens, march with patience. Getting a lens that can do two or three types of images is also a viable option.

One last thing. Third party lenses, like Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina are also great ways to save a few bucks. There are some exquisite lenses made by these manufacturers, but make sure you check what the experts and others who have used them say in forums and online annotation areas.

Canon Portrait Lens On a allocation - How To choose A Portrait Lens

Amazon Kindle DX Review

Read more
0

Oakley change Lens - How to choose the Right Sunglasses

In order to choose the right sunglasses, you need to know not only the newest fashion trend but also the kind of style which will offer the right fit to you and the right look agreeing to your face and features. It is important to understand that not all the newest styles of sunshades may suit well with you. Following are some of the points to keep in mind when choosing your sunglasses:

[b]Lens[/b]

Choose the pair that suits your face shape

One big mistake that most citizen make is that they choose to buy the pair which does not suit well with the shape of their face. If you want to choose the perfect pair of shades, you need to understand what shape of sunglasses will complement the best with the shape of your face. Avoid wearing big, bold and over-sized sunglasses, if your face is small. This will make you look like Atom Ant!

If the shape of your face is oval, then you are lucky. With oval face, you can wear any type and shape of sunglasses. If you have a round face, then you must go for sunglasses with either rectangular or square shaped frames. With round face, you should also go for wider frames as the angular lines will add definition to your face. For people, who have square-shaped faces, I would recommend, round, oval or even cat-eye glasses. For such people, it would be better to choose sunglasses with thinner frames as this style will lengthen their face. Wear oval or rimless glasses, if you have a diamond-shaped face; this will add width above the cheekbones. If your face is triangular in shape, then choose sunglasses that add balance.

Wear Your Protection

Do not only go for the right fit and the right color and pattern. Make sure that the pair you have picked will properly protect your eyes.

Replacement Lens

Make sure that in case you need to buy transfer lens for your frames, they will be easily available. You may want to convert the lens, if they are scratched but you may not want to convert the entire frame, if it easily suits your face. In this case, you can go for Oakley transfer lens; they are ready at many online and onsite stores.

Oakley change Lens - How to choose the Right Sunglasses

Amazon Kindle DX Review

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